Eastgate Street - South Side |
Chester’s modern streets are littered with numerous buildings that offer
visitor’s a wide variety of history, style and construction materials, ranging
from 13th century cellars to brand new city buildings that are only
a few years old. However, the type of property most commonly associated with
Chester is the Black and White half-timbered, Tudor style building which often
appears to suggest great age and history, even where little if any exists. The
city can also boast a plentiful supply of classically elegant Georgian houses,
along with revivals of the much more ancient styles of architecture, including
Roman, Greek and Gothic.
Despite the fact that Chester can probably offer an example of any sort
of architecture that has been employed in England over the past 2000 years,
much of what actually captures the eye and the imagination of the visitor today
is probably new in terms of the city’s great age. And the reason for that is
simple; it is because the central core of the city has been designed by a
relatively small number of architects and designer’s who have either been
artistically and stylistically sympathetic to their predecessors, guided by
current trends or perhaps even influenced by a wealthy employer who had very
clear ideas of how he wanted the particular building to look.
This particular section offers a brief overview of the careers and works
of that relatively small number of men who most people would agree have been at
the forefront of creating modern day Chester and whose work continues to draw
inspiration and admiration from the hundreds of thousands of people who visit
the city every year. Before beginning with the career of the Georgian
architect, Joseph Turner, it is perhaps worth remembering that the city was still
recovering from the devastating effects of the English Civil War siege in 1645
and that Chester was no longer a viable trading port, or indeed a strategically
important military base, any and all of which might account for the sudden and
expansive rounds of modernisation which took place in the city over the
following 150-200 years.
Joseph Turner (1729 – 1807)
Although Joseph Turner is
commonly associated with the city of Chester and two of its most notable
Georgian landmark structures, the Bridgegate and Watergate, he also has equally
strong connections with the adjoining Welsh counties of Flintshire and
Denbighshire, where he was reported to have been employed on a variety of
important civic projects. It is also worth noting though that there seems to
have been several generations of related architects, all of whom were called
Joseph Turner, which has tended to confuse the issue of exactly which projects
were undertaken by the different individuals.
Turner's Bridgegate |
There is a suggestion that Turner
may have been living or working in Whitchurch around 1756; as it is recorded
that a Mr Turner, architect, was sent for from there to survey the old Exchange
building at Chester, possibly as part of one of the series of alterations which
were undertaken on this building throughout its lifetime. Eleven years later,
in 1767, a Mr Turner of Hawarden was reportedly asked to survey Chester’s
medieval East Gate, its adjoining buildings and to design a new arch with a
passageway above it. No record of his designs are thought to have survived, but
evidently they were not accepted by the city’s corporation, as another
architect, a Mr Hayden, was eventually contracted to produce the gateway which
stands in Chester today.
Regardless of this particular
rejection of his work, Joseph Turner continued to operate in and around the
city and in 1774 was recorded to have been formally admitted as a Freeman of
Chester. In the same year he was known to have submitted his designs for the
new Ruthin Gaol, which was reported to have been built in 1775. Some three
years later, in 1778, he was recorded to have been the under-tenant of Further
Bayley’s Croft at Overleigh in the outlying township of Handbridge, although
whether or not he was actually living there is unclear.
In 1780, the architect was
reported to have been residing in Chester itself, notably in the area of
Paradise Row, a relatively new and exclusive suburb of the city which lay to
the west of the ancient city walls and adjacent to the River Dee. According to
records of the time, Turner was involved in purchasing plots of land in the
area from a Mr Chamberlain, although the reason for the new land acquisitions
is not particularly stated, but presumably the land was being bought for
residential development. The Crane Street area of Chester was reported to have
been laid out sometime after 1769 and by 1831 was being described as one of the
most pleasant streets in the whole of the city
As his property holdings in the
city increased, so too did his involvement in property and rental disputes
which were commonly brought before the corporation and the courts. In 1780, he
was reported to be in dispute over the rental of premises in both Queen Street
and Crane Street, although full details of the disagreement are unclear.
However, these cases failed to harm his architectural career, as in the
following year he was asked to produce designs for a replacement for the city’s
medieval Bridgegate, which was thought to be in a fairly perilous condition at
that time.
With his designs accepted by the
corporation, Chester’s medieval Bridgegate, including its flanking towers,
drawbridge and portcullis’ was thought to have been demolished around 1780/1
and Turners replacement gateway substantially completed by 1782. In the same
period he was reported to have been elected as one of the city’s Sheriffs in
the autumn of that year.
In March 1785, Turner once again
found himself in trouble with the local courts, when a local stonemason called
John Broad prepared to sue the architect for £19 which he claimed he was owed
for work done for the architect. However, the matter was finally settled when
the stonemason’s brother, who was also Mr Turner’s foreman, promised to settle
the debt on behalf of his employer, who at the time was reported to be “out of
town”.
The Chester Watergate was
completed circa 1788/9 and replaced a much more ancient gateway which by the
middle of the 18th century was recorded to have fallen into a fairly
ruinous state. Historically held by members of the Stanley family, the Earls of
Derby, this old medieval entrance was eventually bought by the city’s
corporation and demolished almost immediately, being replaced by Turner’s
archway which remains with us today.
During the 1780’s, Turner was
reported to have been employed to design a terrace of houses in the Black
Friars area of the city, possibly including the notable Soughton House and was
the reported architect for the former County Jail which was built on City Walls
Road around 1807, but which was subsequently demolished and replaced by the
Queens School building, designed by another local architect E A Ould.
Watergate Flags |
Nearby, on the western flank of
modern day Nicholas Street the extensive terrace of elegant Georgian
properties, previously known as “Pill Box Terrace” are largely attributed to
the same architect. Commonly thought to have been occupied by Chester’s
professional classes, including a large number of doctors, from where it
derived its locally held title, this whole area was thought to have been owned
and inhabited by members of the local aristocracy and wealthy city merchants.
Later architectural students however, have suggested that this particular
terrace appears to have been built in a rather piecemeal fashion, which might
imply that Turner was not the only designer involved in its overall
construction.
Turner's Bridge of Sighs |
Thomas Harrison (1744 – 1829)
Architect Thomas Harrison is now
synonymous with the city and is unique in having been given the epithet “Of
Chester” which no other building designer has since achieved. In 1785 the
city’s corporation was recorded to have run a competition to find a suitable
replacement for the County gaol which was housed within the precincts of the
medieval castle and offered a prize of 50 guineas to the winning entry. Typhus
or more commonly “gaol fever” was known to be rife at Chester’s historic castle
prison and over the years hundreds of prisoners had succumbed to cold and
disease while being held in its enclosed and airless conditions. The celebrated
prison reformer John Howard had likened it to 'the black hole of Calcutta' and
called for the city authorities to do away with the prison.
From the entries that they received the
city authorities chose the plans of a relatively obscure 40-year-old architect
called Thomas Harrison, who did not even live in Chester, but although unaware
of it at the time, the adoption of his proposals would mark the start of a lifetimes
work in the ancient city for the Yorkshire-born designer that would only end
with his death in 1829.
Chester Castle Entrance |
Returning to England in 1776, Harrison
was reported to have received a commission to design the new Skerton Bridge
across the River Lune, reportedly the first level bridge in the country and
soon followed this up with work on Lancaster’s Shire Hall, both of which
projects were reported to have been substantially completed by 1783. He
continued to undertake several projects in Lancashire, even while he was
employed at Chester and was said to have received the commission to rebuild the
precincts of Lancaster’s historic castle, a project which was thought to have
lasted right through until 1802.
Almost immediately Harrison’s proposals
for the old gaol at Chester were extended to include the entire medieval castle
complex, including the great Shire Hall and the many other medieval structures
that had degraded so badly over the previous decades. Beginning in 1788 these
ancient buildings were systematically demolished and swept away to be replaced
with the modern castle development which inhabits the site today. Harrison’s
new castle would ultimately include a magnificent Shire Hall, Crown Courts,
Armoury, Prison and Military Barracks, all of which would take him the next 35
years to complete. Housed within three great sections, fronted by a central
courtyard, the architects new castle buildings were described as being the
finest County buildings in the Greek Revival style anywhere in the country and
helping to establish him as one of the most pre-eminent regional architects of
the age.
By 1792 the new gaol had been completed,
its dirty disease-ridden communal chambers replaced by new individual cells for
the prisoners, offering light and space to those that were incarcerated.
Inmates that were being held for minor civil offences like debt were now kept
separate from the more serious felons that were incarcerated for murder, theft,
etc. At the time of its completion this new gaol was regarded by most as a real
step forward in penal reform and yet it was later demolished to make way for
the new County Hall which stands over the site today. However, it is also worth
noting that there were some reports that large sections of the new gaol had to
be rebuilt at a later date, due to the fact that much of this modern
“humanitarian” prison had in fact been built by the inmates themselves, which
led to an extremely poor level of construction throughout.
Between 1791 and 1801 the centrepiece of
the new castle complex was constructed, the magnificently colonnaded portico
incorporating the county’s Shire Hall and judicial Courts. To the east and west
of this central building, new wings were added, which would subsequently
accommodate the castle’s Armoury and Military Barracks. Now extending well
beyond the limits of the original medieval walls Harrison designed a new
gateway for the castle in the form of a 'Propylaeum' built on large stone
columns. It was also during the reconstruction of the castle complex that
Harrison was reported to have designed and built St Martin’s Lodge, one of his
homes in the city, which is dated from around 1796.
Chester Castle's Propylaeum |
The Yorkshire-born architect was also
said to have undertaken a partial restoration of the city’s historic Cathedral,
which had suffered much over the previous centuries and continued to be visited
by a number of the nations leading architects in an effort to maintain its
fabric, even after Harrison had completed his work. Visitors and commentators
alike had been moved to highlight the dreadfully poor condition of its
magnificent stonework and to call for action to save the historic structure.
Between 1818 and 1820 extensive renovations were undertaken by the architect to
preserve the building’s inner and outer fabric and to ensure that it would
survive intact in the coming decades.
Harrison was also responsible for the
overall design of Chester’s second river crossing, the Grosvenor Bridge, but
sadly did not live to see its completion as he died on 29th March
1829, aged 85. Opened by the then 13-year-old Princess Victoria in 1833 the
bridge project was reported to have been completed by William Cole, a pupil of
Harrison’s. Up until 1864 the Grosvenor Bridge was thought to be the world’s
greatest single span stone bridge, standing 200 feet wide and 60 feet high.
Although Harrison is still generally
credited with the design of the new second crossing of the River Dee, the
Grosvenor Bridge; it was largely constructed under the supervision of William
Cole, one of Harrison’s most notable pupils, simply because Harrison himself
had resigned from the post of architect some years before the bridge was
actually completed.
Plans for the proposed second crossing
were thought to have originally been put in place as early as 1818, with a
suggested location at Handbridge and much closer to the historic Old Dee Bridge
which had served as the only permanent crossing for hundreds of years. However,
problems regarding the foundations for the new river crossing and the need for
Parliamentary permissions in order to construct the new bridge caused a delay
of several years, during which time the likes of Brunel and Telford were
thought to have become involved with the engineering aspects of the scheme,
causing dissent amongst the various parties. By 1827 the plans had received all
necessary permissions, but clearly Harrison, its designer, was thought to have
become so exasperated by the unexpected and possibly unwelcome interference by
these other equally notable and qualified engineers that he was said to have
simply withdrawn from the project.
Harrison's Grosvenor Bridge |
Before his death Thomas Harrison was also
said to have rebuilt the ancient St Bridget’s church around 1825 after it had
been removed from its original home in Bridge Street to make way for the laying
out of Grosvenor Road and relocating it close to the castle complex. Sadly the
rebuilt church failed to survive later city developments and finally disappeared
forever at the end of the 19th century along with a number of other
historic buildings. As with the still standing Grosvenor Bridge though, the
rebuilt church of St Bridget’s was probably constructed under the watchful eye
of William Cole, rather than the great architect Harrison.
Folliot House in Northgate Street which
was built as his private residence dates from around 1788 is yet another
Harrison building that has managed to last the test of time, albeit in a much
reduced form, but is now largely hidden behind the 'Odeon' cinema and converted
into offices. Further along Northgate Street Chester’s northern gate was also
designed by the same architect and erected between 1808 and 1810. This
important civic project was later followed by a series of other commissions in
the city including the Commercial Newsrooms, which later became the Barclay’s
City Club, the Wesleyan Chapel in St John Street which was completed in
1811, Dee Hills House, later the Ursuline Convent, which was completed in 1814,
Richmond Terrace, built by Harrison for Robert Baxter in the same year and
Watergate House which he built for his friend Henry Potts, the Clerk of the
Peace and completed in 1820.
Harrison's Foliot House |
He was also known to have
accepted and completed a number of commissions for wealthy landowners and
aristocrats, including restoring the Elgin Marbles for their titled owner, as
well as undertaking a number of works for various Scottish nobles at their
ancestral seats. Closer to home he has been credited with designing the Lyceum
in Liverpool, along with the Exchange Building in Manchester.
In 1843 a noted northwest
architect wrote of Harrison that “it was to be regretted that he (Harrison)
had buried his fine talents in the obscure city of Chester, instead of settling
in London and correcting the bad taste of Nash, Sloane and others”
When he died in March 1829
Harrison was laid to rest in the family vault which was located in the
churchyard of the newly raised St Bridget’s which lay close to his home at St
Martin’s Lodge. Despite this church later being demolished, it was thought that
the burial grounds were later absorbed into the parish of St Mary’s which lay
close to Harrison’s new castle complex. However, when Chester’s new inner ring
road system was being laid out during the 1960’s these grounds were reported to
have been cleared to make way for the new roadway. Along with many other
burials and family crypts, Thomas Harrison’s vault was thought to have been
rediscovered and a closer inspection revealed the presence of three separate
coffins within the vault, although there was no clear indication of which one
was Harrison’s. All of the burials recovered at that time were reported to have
been re-interred at the city’s municipal Blacon cemetery on the outskirts of
Chester.
Thomas Lunt (1770 – 1851)
One of the most notable local
builders and altruistic businessmen of the later Georgian and early Victorian
periods in Chester, who is often overlooked by history, was Thomas Lunt, who
was reported to have been born in Tattenhall on the outskirts of Chester
sometime during 1770.
Harrison's Watergate House |
Lunt has also been largely
credited with the construction and layout of Egerton Street in the Newtown area
of Chester, where he was thought to have established an Iron Foundry, supplying
the much needed building material to the city’s emerging industries and
commercial interests. As well as Chester’s long gone Commercial Hall, which
once occupied a site close to today’s British Home Stores and former
Littlewood’s store in Foregate Street, this historic character was also thought
to be responsible for constructing Chester’s Union Hall in 1809 which stood on
the opposite side of the same city thoroughfare, on the site now marked by the
1920’s Mark’s and Spencer’s storefront.
Demolished during the early
1950’s, Lunt’s Commercial Hall, which was said to have been a forerunner of
today’s modern shopping centres, was constructed around 1815 and during its 135
year history had served as a second market hall in Chester, being occupied by a
large number of both single and double shop units, located over two floors.
During the city fairs which were held in both July and October of each year,
tradesmen from all over the country, including London, Glasgow, Birmingham and
Sheffield would converge on the Commercial Hall and sell their much needed
wares to Chester’s traders and shoppers.
As well as being a noted
businessman within the city, Thomas was also said to be a member of the city’s
Quaker community who attended the Society of Friend’s meeting house in Frodsham
Street and was a renowned philanthropist and by repute, a man of high integrity
and honour.
Thomas Lunt's Union Bridge |
Prior to his death, such were his
financial difficulties, that a number of his friends within the local business
community were said to have offered him financial aid, all of which were
thought to have been politely refused by the extremely proud entrepreneur. He
was then reported to have relocated himself and his family to Liverpool, where
on the 7th November 1851 he was said to have passed away.
Rather than be buried away from
his family roots however, later reports suggest that his body was subsequently
removed to Tattenhall in Cheshire where he was interred along with his son John
who had died in 1804, at the tender age of ten years and his daughter Martha
who had died in 1798, aged twenty-two years old.
James Harrison (1814 – 1866)
St Michael's |
Although today Harrison is
generally remembered for his rebuilding of religious buildings, in and around
the Chester area, he along with his better known contemporaries were known to
have undertaken a variety of commissions, both for the church authorities, as
well as for a number of wealthy individuals who lived within Cheshire.
Between 1849 and 1850 St
Michael’s Church, which now serves as Chester’s Heritage Centre, was largely
rebuilt by Harrison, principally because much of its ancient fabric was in such
a ruinous condition and its early steeple appears to have been in danger of
falling down. Reportedly demolished during the winter months of 1848, using
cranes borrowed from Chester’s new castle complex, the foundation stone for the
restored St Michael’s church was reported to have been laid in May 1849 and the
whole building completed by the early months of 1850.
Queens Park, which lies on the
southern bank of the River Dee, was developed as a private residential estate
by the businessman Enoch Gerrard who was thought to have employed a number of
Chester’s leading architects to design and build the affluent estate. James was
reported to have begun his association with the landowner around 1850, about
the same time that he was finalising his rebuilding of St Michael’s church in
the city.
Another of his earliest
commissions in Chester was thought to be for the design of the Chester (later
the Trustee’s) Savings Bank building which is reported to date from the period
between 1851 and 1853. Although the site now operates as a restaurant, the
Chester Savings Bank was reported to have been founded around 1817 and was
initially located in the city’s Exchange building which was in the same general
area of today’s Victorian Town Hall. It was thought to have remained around the
Market Square until 1846 when the bank premises were temporarily relocated to
Goss Street, which is just off Watergate Street. In 1851 the owners were said
to have purchased the land in Grosvenor Street for the specific purpose of
erecting their brand new premises, which were designed by Harrison in a largely
Tudor Gothic style.
Shortly after starting the
Chester Savings Bank commission, Harrison was fortunate enough to be offered
yet another church building project by the religious authorities. The church of
the Holy Ascension at Upton-by-Chester was designed and built by the architect
between 1852 and 1854, requiring him to switch between this project and the
still to be completed bank building in Grosvenor Street.
St Nicholas' Chapel |
Around the same time that
Harrison was finalizing the work on St Nicholas’ chapel, the brand new Christ
Church located at Hough Green on the outskirts of Chester was in the process of
being designed and constructed by the architect, with a reported completion
date of 1855 assigned to the building.
Number 40 Bridge Street, Chester
was rebuilt by Harrison in 1858 and in the same year, both numbers 51 and 53 in
the same city thoroughfare were reported to have been rebuilt to the designs of
the same architect, with both properties thought to originate from 1700.
The ancient St Olave’s Church in
Chester, which is reported to have been founded prior to the Norman Conquest of
the city in 1070, was yet another restoration projects undertaken by Harrison,
with the work reportedly being largely completed by 1859. Close by, the church
of St Mary’s within-the-walls, which today operates as an educational centre,
was restored by Harrison around 1861.
The following year, God’s
Providence House, was rebuilt by Harrison in 1862 and is inscribed with the
words “God’s Providence is Mine Inheritance”, a clear reference to the
householders belief that God had spared him and his family from an outbreak of
plague in the city. Carrying a date of 1652, the building was likely to have
been rebuilt following the end of the Civil War siege of Chester, a time when
poor sanitation and the influx of thousands of soldiers was thought to have
caused several instances of the dreaded disease.
The Old Custom’s House in
Watergate Street was thought to have originally been built around 1633, the
offices having been moved from Chester’s medieval castle buildings around that
time and was then rebuilt to Harrison’s designs in around 1868, two years after
the architects untimely death. The adjoining church of the Holy and Undivided
Trinity, which now operates as the city’s Guildhall, was also restored to
Harrison’s designs around the same time, but once again was only completed
after his death, probably by his former pupils and later successors, Edwards
and Kelly who were reported to have taken over his practice which was located
in St Werburgh’s Street, Chester.
Old Customs House |
Despite being one of the city’s
most prominent architects and having left his mark on a number of Chester’s
landmark buildings, there is a suggestion that Harrison was a fairly solitary,
perhaps even slightly tragic figure who continued to live with his parents, at
their home in St Martin’s-in-the-field right up until his comparatively early
death at the age of 52.
Thomas Mainwaring Penson (1818 – 1864)
Thomas Mainwaring Penson was born
into a family of regional architects, with his father also called Thomas,
reportedly having studied under the renowned Thomas Harrison of Chester. His
older brother Richard Kyrke Penson was also a noted architect in the family’s
home town of Oswestry, but Thomas Mainwaring Junior decided to pursue his
career in the historic city of Chester.
He was responsible for the design
of Overleigh Cemetery’s Bridges & Gates between 1848 and 1850, although the
actual layout of the cemetery grounds themselves was thought to have been the
work of another landscape designer, a Mr Lister. Penson was reported to have
designed a bridge within the grounds, which has long since disappeared, along
with the gates and piers which continue to adorn the main entrances to the
city’s suburban graveyard. In a curious twist perhaps, this cemetery is still
said to hold the mortal remains of Penson’s architectural contemporaries, John
Douglas, Thomas Meakin Lockwood, along with a number of other notable
individuals, who were responsible for building the city we know today. Some
seven years after completing his designs for the cemetery, Penson was reported
to have returned to the same site, this time as the architect responsible for
the design of the Henry Raikes tomb and monument, which was said to have been
sculpted by one Thomas Earp. Raike, who lived between 1782 and 1854, was
reported to have been the Chancellor of the Chester Diocese, as well as being
an active politician within the city and his grand tomb, designed by Penson,
continues to reflect both the wealth and importance of this particular
individual.
Thomas has often been categorized
as a student of the Gothic Revivalist style, who has been accused by some
critics of over-embellishing his works with heavy ornamentation and irregular
features. Penson’s first architectural commission, in which he was said to have
first employed the Black & White Revival style for which he and other Chester
architects have become noted, was on the restoration of 22-24 Eastgate Street
in around 1852, with one of the gables of the restored building still carrying
a date of 1640, the year that it was originally built. In 1856 he was recorded
to have undertaken another project at numbers 34-36 in the same street, having
just completed an earlier project at the city’s racecourse, rebuilding the
grandstand which was thought to have been destroyed by fire during 1855. The
Eastgate Street building designed by Penson is generally described as being
classically revival in style and was perhaps influenced by or a tribute to the
works of Thomas Harrison, who had reintroduced this style of architecture to
Chester some 50-odd years earlier.
Grosvenor Hotel Front |
His next major undertaking in Chester
was reported to be the “Browns” crypt building which is said to date from
1857/8 and built in a High Victorian Gothic style for the Brown family, who
were reported to have been milliners and haberdashers in the city since 1828,
when the business was first founded by Susannah Brown. As part of the
commission, Penson’s new department store building incorporated the medieval
under-croft which had stood on the same site for hundreds of years and is used
today as part of the modern shop premises. In 1858 and between this new Gothic
building and his earlier restoration project of 1852 Penson then undertook a
second Black and White restoration commission at no 26 Eastgate Street, which
is described as a mid 17th century house that contains a number of
early Jacobean features, including a ceiling, staircase and mantelpiece.
Penson has also been credited
with designing Chester’s long since demolished Militia Building, which he was
thought to have completed sometime around 1858 and previously occupying the
site of the 20th century Cheshire Police Headquarters which itself
has recently been demolished to make way for a new multi-million pound hotel
complex. Designed and built to house the soldiers and their families garrisoned
at the nearby Chester Castle, this uniform and robust looking building was said
to be reminiscent of a much earlier defensive structure, complete with
castellated walls, but was thought by some to have been heavily influenced by
the relatively modern fortress at Peckforton.
The Queen’s Hotel in Chester’s
City Road, which still faces the Victorian General Railway Station it was built
to serve, was rebuilt by Penson and Cornelius Sherlock from Liverpool in 1862
following a fire which had destroyed a large part of the earlier building, save
for a brand new wing which had just been built and somehow managed to survive
the inferno.
Queens Hotel Entrance |
As with his equally notable
fellow architect, James Harrison, Thomas died a comparatively young man, being
46 years of age at the time of his death. Just a year or so before his untimely
demise, he was reported to have undertaken his final commission at Chester, the
design of the east window of St John’s church in the city, with the glass being
supplied by Clayton and Bell.
John Douglas (1830 – 1911)
Douglas was the son of a local
building contractor and surveyor from Sandiway in Cheshire who trained under
Edward G Paley of Lancaster and was known to have travelled widely throughout
Northern Europe and North West England, developing his own particular
architectural style which mixed stone, brick and timber into a buildings
construction. Having settled down to practice in the historic city of Chester
around 1860, his emerging and highly individual style helped to further develop
the “Black and White” revivalist look that has become synonymous with the city
and which was said to have first been reintroduced by T M Penson some years
earlier. Some of Douglas’ best work is thought to be in St Werburgh Street in
Chester.
Douglas' Police Station |
By the mid 1890’s, Douglas along
with his single surviving son, Sholto, was thought to have moved to the new
Walmoor Hill property that he had once again designed and built at his own
expense, an impressive Tudor style buildings which was ridiculed by some and
admired by many others. Despite the problems of his personal life,
professionally, Douglas remained as one of the most pre-eminent and sought
after regional architects of his age and counted amongst his clientele the
great and the good of both northern England and the Welsh borders. His client
list included the Duke of Westminster, Lord’s Delamere and Leverhulme, various
city and church authorities from around the region, as well as a plethora of
individually wealthy landowners including the Egertons and the Frosts, etc.
Throughout his renowned career,
the sheer breadth and variety of building designed by Douglas and his
associated partners is not only surprising, but should perhaps be more aptly
described as staggering. He undertook public and private commissions for
churches, chapels, farm buildings and cottages, grand halls and mansions,
hotels, as well as stables and even found time to design at least two hospitals
within the northwest region. But his most famous and photographed design is
undoubtedly Chester’s world famous Eastgate Clock, reportedly the second most
photographed clock in the world, behind Big Ben in London.
Douglas' Park Lodge |
Such was Douglas’ reputation that
examples of his work were illustrated throughout Europe including those of his
buildings on the Eaton estate, the home of the Grosvenor family who were by far
his most important and influential clients.
One of his first commissions for
the Grosvenor family was for the design of the buildings at the newly opened
Grosvenor Park complex which was undertaken sometime between 1865 and 1867 and
included the half-timbered Park Lodge Building, featuring figures of a number
of the city’s early Norman rulers. This particular commission also included the
designs for the canopy for the reportedly ancient “Billy Hobby’s” well, as well
as the elaborate gates and piers which adorned the entrance to the new leisure
park complex.
Around the same time Douglas was
commissioned to design St Bartholomew’s Church at Sealand which was reported to
have been built in around 1867. Today, the building serves as the parish church
for worshippers from both the Sealand Road area of the city and for the nearby
village of Saughall, but attracts little attention from fans of the architect,
due to its semi-rural location.
As previously mentioned, in 1869
Douglas was reported to have acquired a plot of land on the outskirts of the city,
in the Boughton area, on which he designed and built a pair of new properties,
later known as 31 and 33 Dee Banks. The following year, he was thought to have
undertaken the first phase of the buildings which now stand in the Bath Street
area of the city, although the completed project is thought to be a mix of both
Douglas and his contemporary Lockwood and taking until 1903 to fully complete.
St Werburgh Street Buildings |
St Oswald’s Vicarage, which later
served as the English department of Chester College, was built by Douglas in
1880 and the following year he began the Grosvenor Club building in Eastgate
Street, which later became the home of the N and S Wales Bank and today
continues to serve a similar purpose for the HSBC. Completed in 1883, the
property was thought to have been further extended by Douglas, sometime around
1908. The now often overlooked County Police Building at the corner of
Grosvenor Park Road was built by the architect in 1884 and is similar in look
to his earlier commission, the Grosvenor Club building, being faced with a
highly attractive red brick.
The north Porch of the church of
St John the Baptist was said to have been rebuilt by the architect in 1882
following the collapse of the nearby tower and 4 years later he was said to
have also undertaken the rebuilding of the north-east Belfry. This was not the
first time that the architect had completed work at St John’s, as some reports
suggest that Douglas had first completed work there around 1876, although the
nature or scale of this earlier commission is unclear.
Parkers Buildings in Foregate
Street, Chester were designed by Douglas around 1890 as accommodation for
retired workers from the city’s Grosvenor Estates and were erected by the
Northern Counties Housing Association. This association with the Dukes of Westminster
continued with the restoration of the historic Falcon Inn, the one time home of
the Grosvenor family in the city, which was thought to have been restored by
Douglas around 1894. Another of the architect’s personal building projects, at
numbers 2-18 St Werburgh’s Street, on the eastern side of the thoroughfare, was
thought to have been constructed between 1895 and 1899, with the then Duke
reportedly influencing Douglas’ choice of style for the new terrace of
buildings.
Douglas' Shoemakers Row |
As noted previously, Walmoor House,
on the Queens Park estate, was designed and built by Douglas for his own use
around 1896 and two years later he was commissioned to design and build No 7
Grosvenor Street as a home and training centre for city midwives which was
commissioned by the 1st Duke of Westminster and in the same year he
was also said to have designed St Oswald’s Chamber in St Werburgh’s Street.
Douglas’ most celebrated and
photographed creation in the city is the Chester Eastgate Clock, which he
designed to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1897, but which
was only completely erected and working by 1899. That same year, he was thought
to have begun the reconstruction of Shoemaker’s Row in Northgate Street, which
is said to have been designed by a number of Chester’s noted architects, often
in a fairly piecemeal fashion, between 1899 and 1904.
Chester's Eastgate Clock |
Shotwick Park was a commission
for a House and Stables ordered by Thornycroft Vernon, which were rebuilt after
a fire in 1907 and today serves as an Old People’s Home. The site was connected
with the ancient Shotwick Castle, first built by Earl Hugh Lupus in the 12th
century. Douglas was reported to have designed the buildings there, between
1872/1875.
When he died on 23rd
May 1911 at his Walmoor Hill home, Douglas was reported to have left a personal
estate of some £32,000, as well as title to numerous properties in and around
the city. His architectural practice was later absorbed by the less notable
Minshall and Muspratt, becoming Douglas, Minshall and Muspratt. The remains of
the architect were later interred in the family’s tomb at Chester’s Overleigh
Cemetery where they can often overlooked by visitors. Happily though, many of
his works continue to grace the precincts of the historic city, allowing
resident and visitor alike to admire skills of the man that Pevsner once described as the “very best
Cheshire architect”.
Thomas Meakin Lockwood (1830 –
1900)
Much of Lockwood’s career and his
associated buildings were conducted in the city and along with John Douglas and
TM Penson he has been credited with creating the Chester “look”, the black and
white, half-timbered style which has become synonymous with the city. He was
extensively employed by the 1st Duke of Westminster in Chester and
he is remembered with a memorial window in the north aisle of St John the
Baptist church in Chester. His most famous and photographed commissions in
Chester, are the buildings which form the junction between Bridge Street and
Eastgate Street at Chester’s High Cross which was completed around 1888. On the
opposite side of Bridge Street, marking its junction with Watergate Street, the
buildings and elevated rows are also Lockwood’s work, being completed sometime
around 1892.
Lockwood's High Cross |
One of Lockwood’s earliest
commissions was Chester’s Northgate Church, built in 1874 and located at the
northern end of Upper Northgate Street and today sited close to the much more
modern Fountain’s Roundabout, which is a by product of Chester’s 1960’s inner
ring road system. The church today is largely associated with the student body
of the city’s University College in nearby Parkgate Road, as well as the
neighbouring communities in Lorne Street, etc.
In 1877 Lockwood undertook the
design and construction of the Grosvenor Rowing Club Boathouse which sits
alongside the bank of the River Dee. Close by and some 4 years later the
architect was commissioned to design the Hall for the church of St John The
Baptist which continues to stand in this part of the city, a building he would
revisit in 1895, when he designed the Organ Case for the same religious
house.
On the western side of Chester in
1885, Lockwood has been credited with the rebuilding and extending of White
Friars Lodge, a historic building in the city which owed its title to the
former presence of the Carmelite Order which was known to have inhabited this
particular area of the city.
Prior to the construction of
Lockwood’s Grosvenor Museum building in 1885, Chester’s Archaeological Society,
along with many of their historic finds were thought to have been housed at the
Albion Hotel which was located in the Lower Bridge Street area of the city. The
new museum building, constructed by the architect was commissioned by the 1st
Duke of Westminster and just as this commission was coming to an end Lockwood
was reported to be designing the property at No. 3 Upper Northgate Street,
which was thought to have been built as a town house for one of Chester’s
wealthier residents.
Lockwood's High Cross Designs |
Away from the main shopping
thoroughfares, evidence of Lockwood’s work continues to exist in some of the
city’s less obvious but still equally important streets, most notably at 24 to
26 Common Hall Street and numbers 2 to 5 Old Hall Place. All of these
properties were reported to have been built as staff cottages for Browns of
Chester employees and presumably commissioned by a member of that merchant
family in around 1889.
Following his successful work at
the south east junction of the High Cross, in 1892, the Duke of Westminster
then commissioned Lockwood to redesign the opposite junction of the street,
including numbers 2 to 4 Bridge Street, which the architect did, but in a
wholly different style.
Further south of these buildings
and on the eastern side of the street, today’s St Michael’s Row and the associated
stone stairway and St Michael’s Arcade are all attributed to Lockwood, although
some sources suggest that the half timbered street frontages are the work of
his son, rather than the architect himself. According to contemporary reports,
the whole of this area was originally designed and constructed sometime around
1900, in the same tiles and brickwork style as is evident in St Michael’s
Arcade today. These designs were said to have caused such a furore amongst the
local population that the Duke of Westminster, who had originally commissioned
the scheme, later ordered the street facades taken down and replaced with the
traditional and much more acceptable half timbered look that exists today.
Lockwood's St Michael's Row |
The Blossoms Hotel, which now
occupies a site in St John Street, formerly stood in the city’s Foregate
Street, at the junction with St John’s Street, the site later being occupied by
the National Westminster Bank and today, by the “Lush” retail outlet. The later
frontage dated 1911 was thought to have been designed by Lockwood himself, but
raised by one of the architects sons, sometime after his death in 1900.
Although Lockwood does not appear
to have been particularly favoured by the local council for some reason, in
1897 he was the architect that the corporation turned to following a fire in
the new Town Hall’s Council Chamber which had been seriously damaged by fire.
Two years later Bishop Lloyd’s House in Watergate Street was restored by the
architect and in the final year of his life, 1900, Lockwood was reported to
have started his final two projects in the city. Numbers 4 to 10 in the City
Road area of Chester was a commission for a new property, which continues to
stand today and possibly first served as a bank building for the city’s
emerging middle classes. His second project of that final year was said to be
at numbers 9 to 13 Eastgate Street, on the northern flank of the thoroughfare
and including the site of today’s famous Boot Inn. Reportedly a renovation
rather than a complete rebuild, a number of these historic buildings are
thought to date from the 16th and 17th centuries,
although their ancient timber frames are now hidden by Lockwood’s later work.
E A Ould (1852 – 1909)
The young Edward Augustus Ould
was known to have studied in York during the 1870’s before becoming a pupil of
the noted Chester architect John Douglas. Obviously influenced by his mentor,
Ould was known to be an advocate and practitioner of the revivalist style of
architecture, which employed the “Black & White” half timbered look,
commonly found both in the city and in the surrounding countryside.
1911 Foregate St Frontage |
For his own part, Ould was
thought to be a highly skilled and technical architect, who was more interested
in the form and function of his designs, rather than just simply how they
looked and was said to have received regular commissions from the Grosvenor
family.
The Chester Queens School which
was completed around 1878 and originally known as the Chester School For Girls,
stands on the site of the former County Gaol, which itself had only been newly
built around 1807, to replace the infamous Northgate gaol which had been
demolished and replaced about the same time. The land for the new school was
thought to have been donated by the Duke of Westminster, who along with a
number of the city’s wealthiest inhabitants was reported to have helped finance
the new institution.
In 1882, Queen Victoria herself,
was reported to have decreed that the new school should forthwith be called the
Queen’s School, a title which it continues to retain today. The school building
itself is said to be in the Tudor-Gothic style of architecture.
EA Ould's Queen School Frontage |
Although not a prolific architect
in the historic city of Chester, Ould was known to have been largely employed
by a small number of wealthy individual’s throughout his career, including the
likes of the Grosvenor’s and Lord Lever. One of his most important and longest
lasting working relationships though, was said to have been with the Samuel
Theodore Mander, a member of the family who made their fortune from the
manufacture of paints and varnishes. Edward was thought to have been engaged on
the redesign and rebuilding of Mander’s country estate at Wightwick Manor over
a period of several years.
Other Noted Architects In
Chester
Sir Robert Taylor (1714 – 1788)
Taylor was born at Woodford,
Essex in 1714 and having left school, initially followed his father into the
family business as a stonemason and sculptor. However, he enjoyed little
success in the business and instead turned his talents to architecture, which
eventually proved to be a more profitable and successful career.
Site of Forest House, Love Street |
Taylor has been credited by some
with designing “Forest House” in Chester’s Foregate Street which was reported
to have been built for the Barnston family of Crewe around 1759. However, a
number of other architectural sources have dismissed the idea of the property
being the architect’s work, most notably because of its age and design. Elsewhere
in the city though, Taylor is thought to be responsible for the design of the
former Bishop’s Palace that once occupied the site, which is now inhabited by
Sir Arthur Blomfield’s King School buildings that now houses a branch of
Barclay’s Bank.
William Cole Junior (1800 – 1892)
Reportedly born in Chester,
William Cole Junior was thought to be the son of another William Cole who was
also an architect in the city. However, William Junior was said to be a pupil
of Thomas Harrison and the man credited by some with completing his former
masters Grosvenor Bridge, although the names of both James Trubshaw and Jesse
Hartley have been attributed to the completed single span river crossing. At
the time of its completion, this second Dee bridge was reported to be the
widest stone arch in the world and was officially opened by the then Princess
Victoria in 1831.
St Bridget's Illustration |
William is also credited with
designing the core buildings of the then newly constructed Chester Lunatic
Asylum in 1829 and is noted as being the “County Architect” of the time. Built
on ten acres of land purchased from the Reverend Sir Philip Egerton, a Baronet,
the plans were drawn up by Cole, who had been selected by the County
Magistrates to design the new building, but much of the day-to-day construction
work was reportedly undertaken by a Mr W Quay of Neston.
As has been previously mentioned,
the now extinct St Bridget’s Church, which formerly occupied a site close to
Thomas Harrison’s modern castle complex, has often been credited to the same
master architect, but was probably designed by Cole around 1826. The foundation
stone for this popular, but now extinct parish church was reportedly laid on
the 27th October 1827, but within 70 years the church was thought to
have become unfashionable and was taken down for the second and final time in
1892, the same year that its architect departed this world.
William H Lynn (1829 – 1915)
Although William Henry Lynn is
only credited with designing and constructing one single structure in the city,
Chester’s Town Hall which was generally completed by 1869, is such a notable
site that its architect should indeed be mentioned.
WH Lynn's Town Hall |
In 1872 however, Lynn was
reported to have established his own practice in Belfast and set about
designing buildings in his favoured modern Gothic and Italianate styles. Much
favoured by a number of bank and civic committees, Lynn quickly established a reputation
with the commercial, religious and community leaders of the city and was
commissioned to design a number of the city’s landmark buildings.
Although primarily based within
his home city, such was his success and confidence that he was also prepared to
compete against his architectural contemporaries across the Irish Sea in the
north of England. In 1862, Chester’s historic Exchange Building which served as
the city’s Town Hall was destroyed by fire and the designs for its replacement
was put out for competition. Lynn’s design which was reported to have been
influenced by the medieval Cloth Hall at Ypres proved to be the winner of the
contest and although delayed by a series of disputes with the men who were
actually building it, the Town Hall was generally completed by 1869. Perhaps as
a result of this commission and his ongoing work in Belfast Lynn was thought to
have gained further work in mainland Britain, most notably in North Lancashire
and Scotland.
Sir Arthur Blomfield (1829 – 1899)
The former Kings School Building
(now Barclay’s Bank) in Northgate Street was thought to have been converted on
the orders of the Dean of Chester’s Cathedral around 1875, which resulted in
the junction of Northgate Street and St Werburgh Street being widened to its
present extent.
The noted architect Sir Arthur
William Blomfield was commissioned to undertake the work, no doubt aided by the
fact that he was a highly experienced church architect and that his father, who
had previously been the Bishop of Chester, later became the Bishop of London.
Some five years after completing this particular project, the architect was
reported to have returned to Chester Cathedral once again, this time to oversee
restoration work within the Abbey, a commission that was thought to have lasted
from 1882 through to 1887.
Arthur Blomfield had been born on
6th March 1829 at Fulham Palace in London, the fourth son of Charles
James Blomfield, the Bishop of London and who was later educated at Rugby
School and at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he received a BA in 1851 and an
MA in 1854. By 1861 the architect was reported to have been elected as the
President of the Architects Association and in 1883 became the architect to the
Bank of England. He received his knighthood from the monarch in 1889 and
finally passed away at the age of 70, on the 30th October 1899.
In 1852 he was reported to have
been articled to Philip Charles Hardwick and travelled throughout Europe in
order to broaden both his horizons and his education. By 1856, the 27-year-old
Arthur was thought to have established his own independent practice and no
doubt helped by his family connections, within a relatively short time had
gained himself a reputation as a leading architect, notably in the design and
renovation of church buildings.
The King School for boys which
had originally been founded by the Tudor monarch, Henry VIII, sometime after
1540 had previously occupied various locations within the cathedral buildings,
including the former refectory of the earlier Norman Abbey. The King’s School
building, designed in 1875 was thought to have fulfilled this particular role
right through to the 1960’s, when the school was relocated to a new site on the
Wrexham Road on the outskirts of the city.
Harry Beswick
Former Love Street School |
Sir George Gilbert Scott (1811 – 1878)
Born at Cawcott in
Buckinghamshire to a local builder, George Gilbert Scott was articled to
architect James Edmeston from 1827 through to 1831 and later formed a
partnership with W B Moffat, a joint architectural practice that would last for
some 11 years.
Sir George Gilbert Scott |
Between 1868 and 1876 Scott
undertook a series of restoration projects at Chester’s historic Cathedral,
which many experts agree was the most dramatic alteration of the building since
its foundation in the 11th century. He was reported to have largely
rebuilt the Lady Chapel and added the turrets, pinnacles and flying buttresses
that adorn the Cathedral’s exterior, as well as re-facing much of its crumbling
façade with sandstone blocks that were quarried at Runcorn. His most
controversial restoration however, was thought to be the reconstruction of the
east end of the Cathedral’s south choir aisle.
While working at Chester Scott
was also credited with designing St Thomas of Canterbury Church which is
located on Parkgate Road in Chester and constructed between 1869 and 1872.
Giles Gilbert Scott (1880 – 1960)
The grandson of Sir George
Gilbert Scott, Giles Gilbert Scott was born in London on the 9th
November 1880, the third son of George Gilbert Scott Junior, who like his more
famous father was also an architect. Unhappily for the family, George Junior
was thought to have suffered severe mental health problems through the latter
part of his life, which ultimately culminated in him committing suicide,
reportedly at his own father’s St Pancras Station.
For the young Giles however, the
illness and later loss of his father does not appear to have hindered his
progress towards achieving the aim of following both his father and grandfather
into the family business. Educated at Beaumont College, he was then articled to
the architect Temple Lushington Moore in 1899, as was his brother Adrian.
Giles Gilbert Scott |
In the intervening years, he
achieved even greater national distinction with two further landmark projects,
Battersea Power Station and Britain’s iconic red telephone kiosk. In 1930,
proposal’s to build a new power generating station at Battersea were tempered
with a need to build a plant that was both efficient and generally acceptable
to the people and the skyline of the capital city. Because of his architectural
style which was thought to have mixed traditional Gothic with both modernism
and utilitarianism, Scott was asked to help design an industrial building that
was sympathetic to its background, but at the same time, be suitable for its
original purpose.
Six years earlier, in 1924, the
authorities were reported to have sought a new design for the capital’s phone
booths, an earlier design having been rejected by them. Whether or not Scott
could have ever expected that his highly functional telephone kiosk would
eventually become an iconic symbol for everything English is unclear.
Nonetheless, the bright red booths designed by the architect have remained a
traditional feature of British life for the past 70-odd years and it is only
with the advent of mobile communications that their future is now being
reconsidered.
In around 1913, Giles was
reported to have undertaken a restoration project at Chester Cathedral, parts
of which included the design of the “Rood” (Choir Screen), as well as the
design of two of the “Reredos” (Altar Screen) which are part of two of the
chapels located in the Cathedral’s south transept. As part of this same work,
he has also been credited with designing the east window of the Cathedral’s
refectory.
Richard Charles Hussey (1806 – 1887)
St John's Church |
James Strong
Former Fire Station Site |
Strong’s picturesque Fire Station
which occupied a site at the upper end of modern day Northgate Street and built
around 1911, stood on the same spot as had the city’s earlier Potato Market. In
later years Strong’s architectural designs were thought to have been used in
the initial phases of the Lache housing estate in 1919, which centred around
the present day Cliveden Road, Sunbury Crescent and Abingdon Crescent.
Walter Tapper (1861 – 1935)
Chester Newgate |
His replica medieval gateway at
Chester which was reported to have taken less than two years to complete is
constructed of reinforced concrete and faced with sandstone that was quarried
at Runcorn. The “New Gate” was reported to have been officially opened on 3rd
October 1938, almost three years after its creator had died, on the 21st
September 1935.
Ormrod Maxwell Ayrton
Ayrton's St Werburgh Street Buildings |
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